Did you know that the shape of the wave and how they break is mostly determined by the topography of the sea bed? That is what’s known as ‘surf breaks’ – and it is important that you understand them so that you can predict how the waves you ride will move and react.
While there are technically many types of surf breaks out there, the three main ones that you need to know are beach breaks, reef breaks, and point breaks.
Beach Breaks
The most common type of break you’ll encounter are definitely beach breaks. They are essentially just spots where waves break over the sand of the seabed or beach.
Generally this type of break is the most beginner-friendly because the waves themselves tend to be somewhat mellow and the sandy seabed is relatively safe. However because the position of sand banks can shift, beach breaks can be quite unpredictable with peaks and peels constantly moving from day to day.
Point Breaks
When waves hit a piece of land or rocks that are jutting out and peel around it – that is a point break. The wave that it creates is normally long and well-formed, and is generally quite predictable seeing as the topography that creates it doesn’t really change.
Point breaks are not exactly beginner friendly as they can be difficult to get onto. Additionally, several surfers may ride a single wave at the same time – which can be difficult for beginners to deal with.
For more experienced surfers however, point breaks are a treat that can offer a consistent and long surf.
Reef Breaks
As the name implies, this type of break happens where waves break over a seabed made up of coral reefs and rocks. Reef breaks can create spectacular waves, but are also fairly dangerous due to the rocks and corals that you’ll encounter if you fall off. And in some cases they may take place far from the shore, and require a long paddle.
Because of how challenging and risky it can be, you should always make it a point to research reef breaks before attempting to surf. It is best if you talk to local surfers about them, or enquire at surf shops or schools like the Newquay surf school.
Conclusion
By now you should understand what sets the three main types of surf breaks apart from one another. Initially you’re probably going to mostly surf on beach breaks, before eventually trying point breaks when you have some experience under your belt.
It should be noted that nowadays there are some other types of surf breaks that you may want to look into. In particular river breaks are important for surfing on rivers, and artificial breaks are for man-made waves in wave pools.
No matter what type of break you’re surfing, always remember to put safety first. Understanding surf breaks is an important step in the right direction, but you also need to put that knowledge into practice for it to be effective.
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